Featherweight Tip of the Month

“My machine skips stitches only when I paper piece…”

“I was trying to sew on Minky® and my machine was skipping stitches…”

“My machine skips stitches only when I cross an intersection…”

As a general rule (there are always exceptions) skipping stitches is a problem with the sewing machine needle. 

To correct try the following:

Select a new needle.  Needles are mass manufactured and occasionally there can even be a problem with a new needle that is straight from the package.  I prefer Schmetz needles.  They are a high quality, German made needle that are readily available.  Needles should be replaced after eight hours of sewing time or if there is an accident (you hit a pin, presser foot, etc.).

Make certain that you have inserted the needle correctly in the machine.  Remember the flat side of the needle must match the flat side of the needle plate (a built in visual for you).  The needle needs to be inserted all the way up in the shaft before you tighten the needle clamp screw.

For the three problems noted above or whenever you are sewing through thick material, try a larger needle than you have been using.  A needle that is too small will not have the strength to penetrate through the thickness quickly enough for the loop of the thread that the needle is carrying to be caught below in the hook – thus there are skipped stitches.  Use the smallest needle that will perform well in your specific application, but do not be afraid to use a larger needle if that is what is needed to get the job done.

Make certain that the positioning finger on the hook is caught properly in the groove of the needle plate.

Occasionally there could be a problem with a bur on the machine’s hook or other obscure difficulties.  But, again, almost always the difficulty is a needle problem.

It is possible that there could be a timing problem with your machine.  However this is extremely RARE.  These machines were timed from the factory, and their timing should not be adjusted unless you are very experienced with making this adjustment. Please check out my new Facebook page ‘Nova’s Featherweights and Quilting’  (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Novas-Featherweights-and-Quilting/347475461943838?ref=tn_tnmn).  I will be posting mini tips quite often on that site.  Soon there will be a photo of what the screws look like when an unknowledgeable person has decided to work on a machine’s timing.  I would appreciate it if you would become a fan of my page.

Also, I will be posting a special for February in the middle of the month, so come back to visit me soon.

Happy Stitching!

January 2012

Happy New Year!

This month’s Tip deals with the top tension on your Singer Featherweight 221.  Several of my repair customers and different ‘posters’ on the ‘groups’ have had questions and issues with top tension.

The tension assembly on a Featherweight is quite dependable and generally trouble free on a well maintained machine.  The most common issue I am seeing and reading about is the tension is fouled because the numbered dial is being pushed in and turned to adjust the tension.  This is incorrect.

To adjust the tension on your Featherweight all you need to turn is the small silver knob in front of the numbered dial.  Avoid pushing in on the numbered dial when you adjust the tension.

The number one rule if you sit down to sew and suddenly your tension is off – rethread the entire machine.  Most often you can have missed a thread guide, or have the thread wrapped around something that should not be.  Don’t be afraid to adjust the top tension knob, but don’t start there.  Start by rethreading the machine.

If the top tension is fouled on your machine, you will need to push in on the numbered dial and adjust until you obtain a correct tension.  Good tension is indicated by no knots on the top or bottom, but the stitch being ‘locked’ in the center (hence the terminology – ‘lock stitch’ machine).  I generally like to test tension with a different color thread on the top and bottom (remember that Featherweights like to have their threads matched on the top and bottom – same weight, fiber, etc.).   Or, you can run your fingernail down the stitch line to see if you feel knots.  Knots on the top can indicate top tension too tight or bobbin tension too loose.  Knots on the bottom, bobbin tension too tight or top tension too loose.  To tighten top tension go to a higher number (or on the older model machines that did not have a numbered dial – turn right [lefty loosey, righty tighty]).  If you need to reset your top tension, work in small increments pushing in on the numbered dial and adjusting.  Make sure the pin on the back of the silver knob seats in one of the little holes before you check the stitch.  When I service a machine I like to set the tension at about 4 for medium weight cotton quilting fabric.

My Featherweight Maintenance Class does not remove the top tension assembly (this is generally considered a repair – not maintenance).  However, if you believe your tension assembly to be dirty, you can clean it (preferably with it on the machine) with kerosene.  Also, lift your presser foot to release the tension on the discs, take a piece of cotton fabric and ‘shoe shine’ between the discs to remove lint, etc.

If you are placing the machine in storage for a period of time remove the thread from the machine.  Lots of folks leave it threaded to remind them how to thread it again.  When you leave the machine threaded, the thread can absorb moisture from the air and cause rust to form on the tension discs where it is touching them.  This will create problems when the machine is placed back in service (generally requires service to disassemble, clean and polish the discs).

Be sure to check out my new Featherweight Cosmetics Card and Sew Straight Guide.

Happy Stitching!

Clarification - Posted January 5, 2012

Sometimes when writing technical information what appears very clear to me does not communicate as intended to others.

I will try to clarify the January Tip of the Month. 

When adjusting the top tension on your Singer Featherweight for general sewing purposes (differences in fabric weight or thread weight, etc. is why you would need to adjust at all), you should NOT be pushing in on the numbered dial.  You can adjust the top tension by simply turning the small silver knob in front of the numbered dial.

IF YOU HAVE BEEN PUSHING IN ON THE NUMBERED DIAL your tension will be fouled.  Correct tension will not be set for normal fabrics and you will have a hard time adjusting it to sew correctly on any fabric.  Additionally, you will not have the entire range of tension adjustments available to you.

THEREFORE, IF YOU HAVE BEEN PUSHING IN ON THE NUMBERED DIAL you will need to push it in to reset the top tension on the machine.  I like to set the tension for normal quilting weight cottons to 4 or 4 ½ when I am servicing a machine.

Please follow the instructions in the January Tip to reset in small increments until you have achieved a correct setting.

Remember that your Singer Featherweight prefers to have the threads on the top and in the bobbin matched (matching weights and types).

Happy Stitching!

December 2011

Good tension is indicated by the stitch being evenly ‘locked’ in the middle of the fabric you are sewing.  That is why these machines were called ‘lock stitch’ machines (as opposed to chain stitch machines that were prevalent at the time these machines were introduced).  To test tension, I sew on a scrap of fabric with a different color in the top and in the bobbin.  You should see a tiny dot of the other color on each side.  Run your finger nail along the stitch line.  You should feel no knots on either side.  The knots should be ‘locked’ in the center.  Knots on the bottom (top thread showing on the bottom) indicate a problem with the top tension.  Knots on the top (bobbin thread showing on the top) indicate a problem with the bottom tension.

There are two tiny screws on the side of the bobbin case.  When you are holding the bobbin case with the bobbin down the screw on the left is the screw that holds the tension spring on.  The screw on the right is the adjusting screw for bobbin tension.   Remember ‘lefty loosey’, ‘righty tighty’.   Test the bobbin tension by threading the bobbin case (see October 2010 Tip of the Month), holding the case up by the thread and bouncing the bobbin case slightly.  About 1” – 2” of thread should unwind.  Less indicates the bobbin tension is too tight.  More indicates the bobbin tension is too loose.  When turning the adjusting screw for the bobbin case, only turn it about an eighth of a turn at a time.  I think of the face of a clock and turn it about 7 ½ minutes in the appropriate direction.

Sometimes the spring on the bobbin case can become damaged.  These are replaceable, but by now you know that I prefer to prevent damage.  You can prevent putting undue stress on the spring if you will clip the thread close to the bobbin case before you remove the bobbin instead of pulling the thread out backwards through the spring.

Bobbin tension can be affected by an improperly wound bobbin, especially a bobbin that is ‘over-wound’ with too much thread.  This will keep the bobbin from turning freely in the bobbin case.   Also, a bobbin that has a thread on the outside of the bobbin (happens when you begin to wind the bobbin) will not turn freely in the bobbin case.

Occasionally the bobbin tension will be botched because of thread, lint, dirt, rust or other debris being built up or caught behind the tension spring.  Typically the spring will need to be removed to clean this out.  The screws are NOT the same.  The bottom side of the tension screw can be determined because it has a + machined in it.  Remove the adjusting screw first and replace it last.

I do sell replacement bobbin cases and parts for bobbin cases.  Unfortunately, they are expensive as are all new bobbin cases.  (Click here to order a new bobbin case.)  Prices for most of my items (including the bobbin case) are below the suggested retail price.  My goal is to help you keep these machines sewing for many years.

Happy Stitching! 

And a very Happy Holiday Season to you and yours!

Nova
Click here to order Nova’s Featherweight Maintenance Card. 
Click here to order Nova’s Sew Straight Guide.  They would make great gifts for all your Featherweight friends and bee members.

The smells inside an original Featherweight case can come from a variety of sources.  The original cases were made by Singer in their plants in South Bend, Indiana and in Canada (for the most part – there seem to always be exceptions).  The cases are made of oak slats with tongue and grooved corners and covered with a black material that Singer called ‘leatherette’.  The oak tongue and groove construction is the reason the cases have survived so well and done such a great job of protecting the machines.  They were quality built.  The lining material on the inside of the case typically had a vinyl type surface that does not breathe well. Additionally, the glue this lining was secured with was an animal based product (most glues from this time period were animal based).  So, sometimes the odor inside a Featherweight case is caused by moisture getting behind the lining and causing mildew and a ‘dead animal’ smell due to the glue.  But, if moisture penetrated the lining, there is probably other damage to the case besides just an odor.

However, my experience has shown me that most of the time the case is blamed for the foul smell, but the machine is really the culprit.  There is a felt pad in the bottom of the machine in the drip pan (called a drip pan pad).  This pad is designed to absorb and collect excess oil and grease from the maintenance of the machine.  The felt was typically made from wool (here is your animal product).  So, the pads have collected 50+ years of old machine oil and grease plus moisture from the atmosphere, etc.  The machine doesn’t smell when it is out of the case because it is in an open room with lots of fresh air, but you shut it up in the case and those odors are absorbed into the case and they stagnate, etc.  When you open up the case, the smell can nearly knock you down.

So, how do you get rid of the odor?  There are lots of wild solutions out there.  I tend to be pretty practical and simplistic.  Get rid of the dirty drip pan pad, and air out the case!  Replace the drip pan pad with a new one (click here to order), clean the pan before putting the new one in.  Then install the new pad with a few dots of rubber cement.  Set the open case in a safe place where it won’t get hit and knocked over (leading cause of broken latches).  Leave it for a couple of weeks (newspapers stuffed inside and changed periodically can speed up the process).  You might be left with a faint ‘old machine’ smell when you open the case, but the odors that take your breath away should be gone.  The ‘old machine’ smell is part of a Featherweight’s charm.  After all, they are an old, exceptionally well made machine.

I have had a couple of customers who decided to work on their foot controllers themselves (or their husbands did….) with quite harmful results.  When you open the foot controller (remove the cover) you expose the electrical connection between the wiring and the foot controller.  In other words, there are bare wires in there that can shock or electrocute!

As I discussed several months ago, please leave things alone if you do not know what you are doing!  Your safety is the most important thing.  Your Featherweight can’t sew without you there to run it.

I have also had a few inquiries about foot controllers getting hot when just sitting.  There are a couple of things that could be wrong, bad wiring, out of adjustment, etc.  It is always best to unplug any sewing machine when done using it.  An easy way to do this -- in my studio I have my table top Ottlite, sewing machine, and travel iron plugged into a surge protector that sits on the table at my sewing station (no bending over or crawling under the table!).  When I am done sewing, I turn off the switch on the surge protector.  That way I am certain that everything is off and safe.  I don’t have to worry about leaving my iron on, etc.  I can quickly look and see if my Ott light is off or on to know if I have remembered to turn everything off. 

The most important thing to remember about caring for your foot controller is to treat it like a china tea cup.   There are fragile parts inside that are not replaceable.  Don’t flop it onto the floor or kick it into position!  Store it in the tray or in the cleat in the lid of the case.

I am running a special this month on replacement foot controllers if you prefer the newer style, or have concerns about yours. (Click here for the special.)  If the wiring to your foot controller is bad, I would be happy to help you replace it.

Happy Stitching!

PS  If you enjoy the Featherweight Tip of the Month - please 'Like' this page above left on Facebook! 
Also I have a machine that has just come into the shop that beautifully illustrates all we have talked about with regard to maintaining your Featherweight motor.  I will be posting photos of this motor soon - so check back!  It is amazing.

Over the past several months I have had a variety of questions regarding oil, lubricant, whether or not you really need to lubricate the motor, etc.   So, I am changing out what I was going to talk about this month for the Tip.

Oil – different from lubricant – Oil is a flowing substance.  Your Singer Featherweight REQUIRES oiling to keep it running optimally.  ANY good quality sewing machine oil is fine.  However, you do not want to use 3 in 1 oil or any other oil due to a difference in viscosity (thickness).  These will cause your Featherweight to ‘gum up’.  They are simply too thick.

Lubricant – different than oil – Singer lubricant is a NON-flowing grease that was and is specifically designed to be used on sewing machines.  I have been emailed that I should not be recommending this product because Singer is no longer manufacturing it, rather it is a ‘licensed’ product.  I would remind folks that are so concerned about it being a ‘licensed’ product that Singer is a vastly different company than it was when our Featherweight 221’s were manufactured.  The person who sent this email was recommending putting Vaseline on your Featherweight’s gears and in the motor.  A simple heat test will show you the difference between Singer lubricant and Vaseline.  They do not break down the same way under heat (motors get hot).  Vaseline melts and runs.  Logically, would it make more sense to use a ‘licensed’ product that is designed and intended to be used on a sewing machine, or to use Vaseline?  Your Featherweight REQUIRES lubricant on its gears and in its motor.

There is even a blog out there that says the original Singer lubricant was nothing but black axle grease!  Absolutely untrue!

I have also had questions about whether or not you really need to lubricate the Singer 221 motor.  I have been directed to blogs where ‘official’ Singer people are quoted as saying that originally Singer said the motors needed lubrication, but we now know that they do not and that you should never lubricate a motor.  I have no idea who these people are or what their motivation is, but I can tell you that the motors that I have serviced (cleaned) because they quit working were being run dry (NO lubricant).  I have NEVER had to service a motor that quit that was being well lubricated.  The conclusion from everything I have seen is that if you want to replace an original motor on a Singer 221 - stop lubricating it. 

OK, why don’t new sewing machine motors have to be lubricated?  Good question!  New motors have the advantage of some advanced technology.  They have oil impermeated bearings (think of a sponge type action) in their sealed motors and new metal alloys in their compositions.

What about white lithium?  White lithium began to be used after Singer started manufacturing plastic gears.  The original Singer lubricant is a petroleum based product that would cause deterioration of the plastic gears.  It was easier to just have one type of lubricant on the workbench, so lots of repair people simply started using white lithium on older machines with metal gears.  I, personally, do not care for white lithium.   I believe in using what the engineers who designed the machine intended.

Should you use the original tube of grease that came with your Singer 221 when it was new?   I would not use it now.  The tube is made of lead and I would simply set it aside as an original keepsake.

If you need more information about where to oil and lubricate your Singer 221, click here to order Nova’s Featherweight Maintenance Card.  It has full color photographs to show you just how to maintain your machine.

I hope this additional information helps to clarify information about oil, lubricant and your Singer 221.

Replacing the wiring for the cord set on the foot controller is a simple repair.  Replacing the light fixture and its wiring is much more complicated.  So far, I have not seen the deterioration on the light fixture wiring that is so obvious on the cord set.

The safe solution is to replace damaged or aluminum cord set wiring and always unplug your Featherweight when you are not using it.  The photo shows you how to tell if your cord set has aluminum wiring.  Aluminum wiring is a smooth wire.  Copper wiring has a groove between the wires.  In the photo the wire on the top is aluminum, on the bottom is copper.

Please contact me if your cord set has aluminum wiring.  Replacing it is a fast, easy, and relatively inexpensive repair.  And remember to unplug your machine!  You will save a little on your electric bill too!  Cords left plugged in ‘leak’ electricity.

Happy Stitching!

We are going to talk about the motor on your Singer Featherweight one more time since it is so important to your little machine.  Should you replace a motor that is hesitating when you push on the foot controller?   Or, what if the motor quits completely?  How do you know if it is a motor problem, or the foot controller?  If you push on the foot controller and nothing happens – carefully touch the motor belt.  If the motor starts up when you touch or nudge the belt, it is a motor problem.

The motor on the Singer 221 is an excellent little motor.  Again, as I said back in May, the issue is not quality or age but poor maintenance.  If the motor has been run without lubricant or with improper lubricant, soot (and / or improper lubricant) will build up in the motor and eventually cause it to stop running.  The soot can be cleaned out of the inside of the motor, and most of the time the motor can be saved. 

This month’s tip also deals with servicing the motor on your Featherweight.  You should check the brushes on your Featherweight motor annually.  Check the motor brush by removing the large screw on the top of the motor.  This is the motor brush cap.  Be gentle when unscrewing this.  The cap is made of Bakelite and the top breaks off relatively easily.  Remove the motor brush by gently pulling on the spring that should be attached to the brush.  The brush is actually a rectangular block of carbon which ‘brushes’ against the commutator on the motor.  Worn motor brushes need to be replaced.  The photo illustrates the difference in size between a new motor brush and a worn one.  To be on the safe side, I recommend replacing the motor brush when it is about ¼” long (not including the small nub where the spring attaches).  There are two motor brushes – one accessed from the top and one from the bottom.  They wear at the same rate and should be replaced as a pair.  I only recommend checking the one on the top because the one on the bottom is more difficult to access (since they wear at the same rate, they should be the same length).

After checking the length of the brush, replace it into the motor matching the arc on the bottom of the brush to the direction of the spin of the motor.  It is VERY important that the spring is in place on top of the brush.  Replace the cap and finger tighten (no screwdriver necessary).

Often, due to a lack of maintenance or improper maintenance (putting something in the motor that should not be), there will be soot on the carbon brush or the carbon brush will be stuck and cannot be removed to be checked.  Again, prevention of problems is always the preferred route.

Motor brushes have very long lives and do not need to be replaced often, but it is critical that they are replaced when necessary.

I cover this (and all aspects of maintenance) in great detail in my Singer Featherweight Maintenance Workshop.  I will be teaching this class twice at the Houston International Quilt Festival in November.  Also, I travel and teach this class.  Contact me to schedule a workshop for your guild or group.

May  2011

If you are a frequent reader of my Tip of the Month, you know that I discuss issues that have recently come through my repair shop.  I have had several Featherweights come through with bad motors.  Luckily these were all repairable and did not have to be replaced –-- yet (all have been damaged).  The issue is not age and certainly not poor quality (most have been sewing for over 50 years!).  The issue is poor maintenance. 

 

Your Singer Featherweight motor has two ‘wells’ (or cups, or shafts) that MUST be kept filled with Singer lubricant (and ONLY Singer lubricant).  Think of this as ‘topping off’ (like you do your gasoline tank).  Do not ‘dig around’ in these motor wells – you can cause damage to the motor.  You should cut the tip of the Singer lubricant off nice and flat.  Press the flat cut end of the lubricant flush against the top of the motor well.  Squeeze on the lubricant until excess oozes out around the top of the well.  This should be done on a REGULAR basis.  I usually top my machine off after every project, or if I sew consistently for a day (at a retreat or bee) – at the end of that day.  Check your motor wells often.  Keep them full.  Machines with motor issues that have come to my repair shop have one common characteristic – the motor wells have been completely empty.  Prevent motor failure: maintain your Singer Featherweight motor. 

This month I am running a special on Singer lubricant for your machine.

Please note that SOME of the white machines do not have motor wells to service.  Their motors are sealed and require no maintenance.

I highly recommend my Singer Featherweight Maintenance Workshop (I will be teaching this twice at the International Quilt Festival in Houston in November) and Nova’s Singer Featherweight cards.  They will save you costly repairs if you follow the instructions.

 

Happy Stitching!

April 2011

I quite often have Featherweights come in for repair that have broken bobbin winder arms.  The arms are made of cast aluminum as is the rest of the Featherweight body.  They break quite easily when hit.  Currently (April 2011), they are a replaceable part.  However, prevention is always the better option.  Damage can be prevented by not putting the winder arm up in a saluting position.  The correct position for the arm when it is not winding a bobbin is just above the motor belt, so it is not making contact with the motor belt.  This information is covered on Nova’s Featherweight Basics Card, along with lots of other everyday useful information.

Happy Stitching!

March 2011

One of the neat things about my web site is its analytical tools.  They give me the advantage of being able to see what people are searching for on my site; and, therefore the opportunity to address their needs.

This month I had three instances of people inquiring, “Do Featherweights require a special needle?”   The answer is, “No, Featherweights do not require a special needle”.  My personal preference is Schmetz sewing machine needles.  I typically piece quilts with a Schmetz Universal size 80.  This is also the new needle I insert into a machine after I have finished servicing it.   They are high-quality European made sewing machine needles that are readily available.

All sewing machine needles (hand needles, too!) should be replaced after 8 – 10 hours of use (or if damaged in any way).  Paper piecing is typically harder on sewing machine needles.  Watch for signs of dullness (needle damaging fabric) and replace more often if necessary.

The all important thing about the Featherweight is that you insert that needle correctly!  Refer back to the April 2010 Tip of the Month for full information.

Happy Stitching!

 

February 2011

One of the most common problems I see in my repair shop is a broken electrical receptacle on the machine bed (where the foot controller plugs into the machine).  These are almost always broken in a half moon shape on the bottom of the receptacle.  This is an easily preventable problem.  The receptacles are broken when hurriedly placing the machine back in the case.  The receptacle extends beyond the body of the machine and is hit when the machine is being lowered into the case.  That is why the breaks are almost always half moon shaped.  The prevention for this is to slow down, and lower the receptacle end of the machine into the case first, then straighten the machine (level) and continue lowering it into position in the case.  If you have a damaged receptacle, it should be replaced.  There is a danger of you touching the electrical prongs when plugging and unplugging the cord set.  Be safe so you can sew for a long time!

Happy Stitching!


January 2011

Happy New Year!  I hope all of your holidays have been safe, happy and peaceful.  I have enjoyed writing these 'Tips of the Month' and hope you are finding them beneficial.  I typically write about issues that were either emailed to me or have come through my repair shop during the previous month.

This month's 'Tip' is accompanied by the photo shown here of a machine that recently came through my repair shop.  I was pretty amazed at the inventive resourcefulness of the owner's husband.  He had 'repaired' the machine with a piece of high tensile wire where the thread guide was missing.  And, while this arrangement was functioning, it was really unnecessary.  There are replacement parts available for the Singer Featherweight machines.  And, for the parts that are not being reproduced, I have 'parts machines' available for the robbing of parts.  So, please contact me if you are in need of parts for your machine.  Even if you don't see the part you are needing listed in my online Shop, I will be happy to help you in any way I can. 

Happy Stitching in 2011!!


December 2010

The belt for the Singer Featherweight 221 is replaceable with the style belt that Singer originally designed - a V-shaped black belt.  This belt consistently performs better and quieter than the 'orange' belts that have been sold as replacements for the original.  To replace the belt:

Loosen the small screw on the silver stop motion knob on the large hand wheel.

Unscrew the stop motion knob and remove from the machine.

NOTE the washer - its 'ears' should be pointing out.  Remove.       

Pull the hand wheel off of the machine - belt will come with it.

Remove belt from motor area.

Install new belt on pulley on motor.  (This is usually a two-handed job.)

Loop over hand wheel (loose - not on machine).

Replace hand wheel on machine.

Replace washer ('ears' out) and then the knob.  Tighten screw on knob (not too tight!).

Belt should be just tight enough to pull machine without slipping -- NOT plucking tight!  Actually, pretty loose.

If belt is too tight - loosen large screw that holds the motor in place - look at motor as if you are sewing - screw is below and behind hand wheel.  IF YOU LOOSEN THIS SCREW - PROTECT THE PAINT ON THE ARM OF THE MACHINE FROM THE SCREW DRIVER.  This screw holds the motor in place.  Loosening it will allow the motor to slide up and down.  Raise the motor slightly and re-tighten the belt.

It is VERY important NOT to run the machine with the belt too tight.  This can cause the machine to run slowly and can damage the motor.

Happy Holidays!
Shop for gifts for your Featherweight enthusiast by clicking here!


November 2010

Hello!  I hope you are reading my Greetings and News page every month also! 

I have some very exciting news for you!  For some time now my students have been requesting a simple visual reminder of how to care for their machines.  So, I have developed four great new products for you and your beloved Featherweights - Nova's Featherweight Maintenance Card, Nova's Featherweight Troubleshooting Card, Nova's Featherweight Basics Card, and Nova's Featherweight Attachment Card.

These cards are made of heavy weight laminated card stock and are designed to fit in the front of your Featherweight case.  They are durable and handy to keep right with the machine.  They feature full color photographs with red arrows pointing right at key points for you.  If you accidentally drop oil or kerosene on it while maintaining your machine - just wipe it off.  No harm done!

I just returned from quilt market and the response to these was tremendous!

To take a closer look, or securely order yours - click on the links below.  Remember, if you don't like ordering over the internet, simply telephone me.  I will be happy to take your order over the phone.

Nova's Featherweight Maintenance Card
Nova's Featherweight Troubleshooting Card
Nova's Featherweight Basics Card
Nova's Featherweight Attachment Card

I hope you enjoy them, and thank you to my wonderful students for continuing to insist that these would be beneficial.


October 2010

I am hearing from you that you are enjoying the Tip of the Month.  That is great!  Keep coming back!

The bobbin case on the Featherweight is threaded  with the bobbin spinning counter-clockwise.  When you hold the bobbin up before inserting it in the bobbin case the thread should make a lower case 'd'.  This is an easy way to remember and check.  For me it is "d"ifferent than my Bernina.  Another way of thinking of it is that all bobbin cases are threaded with the thread running back on itself.  Remember to draw your bobbin thread up to the top and hold your thread tails when you begin stitching - every time!  You will prevent the machine from jamming if you do this one simple thing.

I have some exciting new products coming out soon.  Be sure to check back here for their introduction!

September 2010

The small knob on the top left of the machine (silver on some and black on others depending on the year of manufacture) is the presser foot pressure knob.  It is used to adjust the amount of pressure the presser foot is putting on the fabric being stitched.  This knob should turn freely and for typical quilting cottons it should be adjusted so that approximately 2 screw threads are showing.  The knob should be adjusted downward for sewing heavier fabrics that would require more pressure to pull through the sewing machine and it should be adjusted upward to sew lighter weight fabrics (less pressure).  You NEVER want to completely unscrew this.  There is a spring under tension below this that is actually controlling the pressure.  If you unscrew this completely, you will be hunting a spring! 

Recently at my quilting bee, a friend was sewing on her Featherweight and it was skipping stitches.  We replaced the needle, rethreaded the machine, etc.  I sewed and sewed with the machine with no skipped stitches.  She sat back down to sew and before long announced that the machine was still skipping stitches.  She got up and I went over and sewed for quite a while with no skipped stitches.  She sat down and soon announced again that the machine was still skipping stitches.  Only then did I realize that she was sewing on Thangles.  I had never experienced a problem with paper piecing on a Featherweight before.  I looked and this presser foot pressure knob was unscrewed quite a bit.  We adjusted it downward to pull a heavier load, and the machine performed much better!!  Evidently the lessened pressure was allowing the foot to slip causing skipped stitches.  We all learn as we go!  Happy Stitching!!

  Remember - you can shop safely for parts and accessories here!


August 2010

The rubber 'feet' on the bottom of your machine that protect the table top from being scratched tend to deteriorate over the years.  These feet are replaceable (click here to order new bed cushions) and are relatively easy to install.  There is no need to use makeshift felt pads, etc.  If the screw heads are visible, simply unscrew and remove the screw.  If the screw heads are not visible due to the feet 'melting' over the screw head, take an old screwdriver and dig out the old cushion.  If you can not get a screwdriver head in the slot in the screw, take needle-nosed pliers and grip the screw to remove it.  The screw head slot can be cleaned out for replacement over the new cushion (foot) with a utility knife.  Once all the old cushion is removed, simply set the new one in place and replace the screw.  I would recommend replacing all four at the same time.